WBW #17 Day Old Red Kiwis
O.K. so that isn’t the real title of this edition of Wine Blog Wednesday, the monthly global wine tasting event, it’s just Red Kiwis. I ran out last night, and picked up a red wine from New Zealand. The retailer I visited runs a little low on their selection of Reds from this region. There were a few Pinot Noir’s and one Zinfandel to choose from, so I decided to grab the 2003 Mt. Difficulty Pinot Noir, Central Otago, NZ. This was the most expensive of the Pinot’s I saw, at $26 USD, and sported a handsome screw cap, so I decided to indulge.
This wine isn’t what I was expecting. The only other Pinot Noir I’ve had from New Zealand was very different from this bottle. I found myself at a loss on how to explain this wine, as it lacked distinct characteristics. Maybe a little cherry, some earth, a little must, everything seemed hidden. At 14 percent, this isn’t the highest level of alcohol I’ve had, but it is up there for a Pinot, perhaps a contributing factor to this wine being closed. The palate was medium bodied, but still devoid of distinctive character which led into a mellow finish. A spiciness lingered on my tongue and throat on the finish.
I wonder about this wine, would it benefit from some softening in bottle? The tannic structure seems good, but with the fining and filtering, I doubt it would stand up as well as a good Burgundy. Don’t get me wrong, this was still a nice bottle, and I will probably grab a couple to throw into the cellar. New Zealand is producing some great red wines, and will continue to hone it’s skills on difficult varietals year after year. I’m looking forward to trying more reds from this region in the future.
The Wine
Vintage: 2003
Winery: Mt. Difficulty [Website]
Region: Central Otago, New Zealand
Varietal: Pinot Noir
Price: $26 USD
Notes: Situated on the banks of the Kawarau River in Bannockburn, this wine received a long ripening period which played a role in it’s 14% alcohol level, and spent 11 months in barrel. It was fined and filtered and has a nice ruby red color. Hints of earth, minerals, must, tobacco, on the nose, medium bodied on the palate, a simple finish with a touch of spice. A closed wine that may benefit from a couple years in the cellar.
Score: 88 pts JAT
January 5th, 2006 at 8:27 pm
I have enjoyed this same wine a few times (as I stare at an empty 2003 next to the flat screen) and a few customers have raved about it, especially one ex-pat Aussie Doctor, so I was favorably impressed with it at $30 in Ohio. Overall I am impressed with the Pinot offerings from Central Otago and look forward to seeing more on the shelves.
jens at cincinati wine
January 6th, 2006 at 3:12 am
Central Otago is a difficult region, as the climatic conditions are marginal sometimes, and it doesnt really have a long history like Marlborough. That said there are some great wines coming from there, and Mt Difficulty is up there with them. I personally prefer their whites – the Pinot Gris is amazingly crisp and clean with vibrant aromatic notes. If you can find it the best Pinot from Otago is Mt Edward from a guy called Alan Brady, New Zealands king of Pinot. It really needs a year or two of bottle age to develop, but it is well worth it.
grazza,
sommelier,
Chester, UK
January 6th, 2006 at 9:17 am
Jens,
I couldn’t agree with you more. This offering was more to my test than the many fruit bomb Pinot’s coming from varied regions in California. This is just the beginning for my New Zealand red wine affair.
January 6th, 2006 at 9:44 am
Grazza,
Thanks for the recommendation, I’ll try to find this bottle.
As far as Central Otago is concerned, lack of a long history is sure to lend this area to the big “V” word. New Regions that must prove themselves are the best place to find good wine at an affordable price.
January 10th, 2006 at 9:53 pm
Definitely recommend that Mt Edward bottle.
Did a tasting other central Pinot Noirs at Queenstown’s Wine Tastes on the weekend and there are some good wines out there just not the most economical. For value, you have to go a little more North. More grapes, more wine, more second tier labels.
For history, it hardly classifies as ancient but there has been commercial wine production in Central for about 120 years (about the same as Marlborough), thanks to JD Feraud. Although Marlborough has taken off sooner, Bragato’s initial assessment of NZ wine regions didn’t include Marlborough, strangely enough.
The Wine Festival is coming up in Q’town on February 4th so hopefully there will be another trip.
Good Luck in your NZ wine endevours!
January 12th, 2006 at 10:31 am
Mary,
Thanks for the insight.
It’s odd how certain wine regions grow faster than others, especially when other areas have just as much, if not more potential. Marketing is huge.
That’s two votes for that Mount Edwards bottle now, it sounds like a winner.
Thanks again!