Finding White Bordeaux
You read that correctly, white Bordeaux, not white Burgundy, is the topic in Eric Asimov’s latest entry on the NYTimes wine series “The Pour”. Typically made from a blend of Semillon and Sauvignon Blanc, this is a wine that has been eclipsed by both it’s sweet sibling, and the red synonymous with the area. But Eric highlights the benefits of white Bordeaux as an affordable option to Chardonnay from Burgundy, with similar nuances and ageability. It has peaked my interest, so now, it’s just a matter of finding it so I can give it a taste.
Even when Graves was simply Graves, great white Bordeaux was always rare, yet whites from producers like Haut-Brion, Laville-Haut-Brion and Domaine de Chevalier make indelible impressions.
Read [NYTimes.com]
March 3rd, 2006 at 6:24 am
Jathan,
I find white Bordeaux so much more approachable (read: affordable) than white Burgundy. I was a bit surprised when I saw Asimov’s pitch to get drinkers interested. Tracking down some of this stuff is its own reward. This Côtes de Blaye is drinking so beautifully right now. And it’s only about $20 CAN.
March 3rd, 2006 at 10:03 am
Herr Doktor,
I’m curious about the ageing on a bottle like this. You say it’s drinking well, and it’s a 2000, 100% Sauvignon Blanc . Could it go much longer than that? I just opened a 2002 Viognier from California that seemed to be past it’s prime already. It’s amazing how different winemaking styles can effect the ageability of wine.
March 4th, 2006 at 7:09 am
I am bit surprised myself. But as the Times piece said, sometimes these Sauvignons can age. I think this Côtes de Blaye being from vieilles vignes and from the great 2000 vintage can only help.
I’ve opened this wine twice, once in 2005, when I was worried about it fading and then again last month. To tell you the truth I enjoyed it more this year though some of the sharp fruity notes may have been dulled. I noticed the beautiful golden colour, honeyed aromas and well-integrated oak more. It wasn’t close to what I had recalled tasting in 2005 (didn’t mention that fact during the ordering quandary in my post). I did write “deep tones” though and I’m still wondering what that wow factor for me was. It was like the citrus element had become caramelized, smoother. Who knows, by the summer it could be falling over the edge. But Asimov writes some white Bordeaux “can evolve and improve for several decades.” Wish I knew more for certain about the Haut-Bertinerie and wines its range, and as you can tell, I’m still deciding for myself how much more of this stuff I want to go out and buy.